36 Hours in Oslo – The New York Times

36 Hours in Oslo – The New York Times

Colorful doughnuts with glistening glaze beckon from behind the glass window at Talor & Jorgen, a take-away coffee shop and roastery specializing in soft yeasted sweets. Opened last year, this cheerful cafe recently displayed a dozen delectable flavors, from salted caramel popcorn to stuffed crème brûlée. Best in show was the strawberry pistachio doughnut with gooey hot-pink icing (49 kroner).

Ride the tram up the hill southeast of the city center to Ekebergparken, a wooded sculpture park with sweeping views across the city and Oslo fjord. After admiring the scene — eagle eyes can spot the sloping roof of the Astrup Fearnley Museum and the silver swoop of the Holmenkollen ski jump — continue into the woods. Steep hillside paths are dotted with 39 sculptures and installations. To experience James Turrell’s side-by-side installations in an old water reservoir, “Ganzfeld and “Skyspace,” which utilize light to mesmerizing effect, reserve timed tickets online (free).

Or, if the weather is not cooperating, take shelter at Kunstnernes Hus, an artist-run exhibition hall (the name translates to “The Artists’ House”), with a rich cultural program of lectures, debates, film screenings and art events. Documentaries and visual artworks are shown in a new cinema room, while a second-floor gallery regularly showcases works from promising Norwegian artists. Admission, 80 kroner.

Budget lodgings are rare in Oslo, but there are a few good-value gems. The PS:hotell is an eco-conscious property in Grunerlokka, with 31 simple rooms, colorful décor and free breakfast (Vulkan 22; pshotell.no; from about 900 kroner).

In the residential Frogner neighborhood, the Oslo Guldsmeden is a 50-room boutique hotel with eco-friendly ethos and homey décor, romantic four-poster beds with fur throws, a Turkish sauna, and complimentary organic breakfasts (Parkveien 78; guldsmedenhotels.com/oslo; from 895 kroner).

Apartment rentals are plentiful in trendy Grunerlokka, where rates for a one-bedroom range from $75 to about $150 on Airbnb.

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