Good morning. Alison Roman is a cook and author who has contributed occasional recipes to NYT Cooking for a few years now. Today I come to you with great news: She’ll be doing so regularly from this point forward, as a columnist for The Times. Read her debut, about butterflied fish and her mom and unfussy cooking, and then cook her great recipe for sheet-pan trout (above). Remember the old “60-Minute Gourmet” columns of Pierre Franey? I think Alison is an heir to that tradition, and I hope you’ll make her welcome.
Also new this week is Julia Moskin’s terrific article about the history and culture of Chinese-style spareribs, which will absolutely leave you wanting to cook her master recipe for that takeout star. Serve with smashed cucumbers or steamed bok choy and plenty of napkins. (Extra points if you slide the ribs into insulated bags.)
Not that you always need to cook with a recipe. Indeed on Wednesdays we often do not, preferring instead to work off improvisational prompts, just like Ryan Stiles and Colin Mochrie.
Here’s an example you could try this weekend: a whole duck. The other day I rubbed one with ground cumin and a little cinnamon, a lot of salt and pepper, and I cut slits in the skin so the fat could render, then roasted it slowly in my grill for a couple of hours, indirect heat, lots of smoke. Next, I wrapped the thing in foil, put it in a roasting pan, and cooked it for a couple more hours in a low oven, until the bird essentially collapsed and I could shred its meat from the carcass with forks. Served that meat with a little of the skin cut into it, a drizzle of the fat as well, with kale salad and rice and a baguette. It left me feeling as if I were the American version of Bruno, Chief of Police.
Tonight, though, Alison’s fish if I can find a trout, or Florence Fabricant’s recipe for chile shrimp if I cannot. Maybe a pile of blueberries for dessert, drizzled in cream or accompanied by the yogurt I hope many of you are now making at home.
And maybe tomorrow night: sizzling pork tacos, with pineapple salsa? Or a tuna club sandwich of uncommon excellence? You could always make the chef Tom Colicchio’s recipe for summer minestrone, chill it in the fridge, eat it for days.
Many thousands more recipes to cook this week are on NYT Cooking. (Check out this Greek-style juicy lucy, with lamb and goat cheese.) You will need a subscription in order to access many of them. That’s a fair business, though: They’re excellent recipes, and we give you smart features to go along with them. Sign up if you have not done so already. I thank you in advance.
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Now, it’s nothing to do with arugula or king salmon, but anytime you see Robert Sullivan’s byline you ought to read what he’s written. Here’s his latest, an essay for Places about Brooklyn: where it has gone and where it might go.